Demetri’s BBQ

For Sam Nakos, there is nothing better than the bond formed by breaking bread with someone.

For almost half a century, the Demetri’s BBQ owner and his family have shared their love of conversation and providing stomach-pleasing recipes with customers.

Sam’s father, Demetri Nakos, immigrated from Greece to the U.S., where he landed at the Oakland BBQ grill in Ensley. Located in a flourishing steel community in the ’60s, it was really more bar than grill.

Demetri was a World War II veteran with a high work ethic and determination to have his own kind of place.

“He wanted more grill than bar,” Sam said. “He was a great cook and wanted a family atmosphere.”

So after getting some good experience, he moved locations and took over El Rancho BBQ in Homewood. With high visibility located near the old Homewood city hall, he spent the next decade establishing barbecue flavors in the taste buds of local residents.

In 1973, he opened Demetri’s BBQ in its current location on 28th Avenue. With his name now entrenched in the area, it was time to make it a family affair.

“I was 8 when my dad made me come down and wash dishes,” Sam said. “I certainly paid my dues early.”

Watching his dad talk with patrons and treat them like family, he saw the respect they had for him. Today customers still tell Sam about the “Mayberry” feel the restaurant has always had.

Sam continues those meaningful relationships with a true concern for their experience in his restaurant. But he also knows that the food has to be great to keep them coming back. Today all kinds of meat — pork, ribs, beef, chicken, turkey, wings — fill out the menu.

Sam is always experimenting with breakfast, lunch and dinner recipes and adding new items to the menu. Its menu evolution has reflected society’s diet changes but also his own.

 “I eat more vegetables now that I am older,” Sam said. “So I am offering more veggies than I ever have.”

The menu now boast a Low Carb Special with chicken served over feta slaw with caramelized onions, but the mainstays will always be available, with one in particular that Sam has eaten for 20 years and never gets tired of.

“The grilled chicken sandwich,” Sam said with a smile on his face. “I love that it has taken 25 years to get some of my recipes like that just right. It means I can offer something that was made from skill.”

Demetri passed away in 2002, but Sam said the dignity that he established is still a big part of how people in this area relate to his restaurant.

Not only those who come through the door to enjoy things like fried pie with caramel glaze or ribs with all the trimmings. Employees also get a chance to be part of something special.

“They not only learn the skills and ethics needed for the restaurant biz and life in general,” Sam said. “But they are family. I would put my waitresses up against anyone’s around and can’t imagine my life without all of them being a big part of what we do here at Demetri’s.”